Great Southern Dog Training · Albany WA

Managing Dog Reactivity

Barking, lunging, fixating — reactivity is one of the most common problems dog owners face, and one of the most difficult to work through. There is no quick fix. What there is, is a clear framework — and consistent application of it gives many dogs a better quality of life. This is the four-phase approach Darren uses in practice, based on 30+ years of working with reactive dogs.

Dog-to-dog reactivity Fear and anxiety Frustration and prey drive Lead reactivity Aggression
Key terms — read these first
Stimulus
Anything that triggers your dog's unwanted behaviour — another dog, a person, a bike, a noise. Identify it precisely before you begin training.
Threshold
The tipping point between your dog noticing the stimulus and reacting to it. Under threshold: dog can still think, take food, and respond to you. Over threshold: barking, lunging, fixating, or refusing food. Threshold is not fixed — it shifts with distance, intensity, context, and how the dog is feeling that day.
Trigger stacking
Multiple smaller stressors adding up until the dog tips over threshold — even if none alone would do it. A dog who was fine yesterday may react today because they're tired, sore, or already had three stressful encounters. This is why "but he was fine last time" is never the whole story.
Reward
Something the dog wants, used to increase a behaviour. This can be food, play, a toy, or affection. Vary the type and amount — a dog who can't predict what's coming stays more engaged. Do not use the same reward every time.
Correction
A technique used to decrease a behaviour. This can be removing praise, gentle lead pressure, a tap on the shoulder, a quiet "No," or a check on the collar with a loose lead. No harsh punishment is required or appropriate. A correction is only ever fair if the dog already knows what to do instead.
TRAIN vs WORK
TRAIN — the dog is still learning the behaviour. No correction is possible; correcting a dog for not knowing what to do is unfair. WORK — the dog has learned the behaviour and a correction may be introduced if they choose not to respond. A dog only moves to WORK when they succeed roughly 8 out of 10 times at that level of distraction — knowing it in the lounge is not the same as knowing it at the park.
Under
Dog notices the stimulus. Can still think, take food, and respond to the handler. This is where all training happens.
Threshold
The tipping point. Dog is oriented, focused, arousal is rising. Work just below this line — not on it.
Over
Dog is reacting — barking, lunging, fixating, refusing food. No learning happens here. Remove the dog from the situation.
Before training — management

Management stops the dog practising the problem between sessions. Every time a reactive dog rehearses the reaction, the behaviour is reinforced. Use distance, route changes, a car barrier, a screen, or a physical block — whatever prevents the reaction from occurring. Management is not training; it is the container that makes training possible.

Understand your dog
Know the breed and the individual personality. Some behaviours are breed-specific and need to be managed differently. Also rule out pain — a dog whose reactivity has recently worsened or changed character should see a vet before training begins. Pain lowers the threshold for everything.
Identify the stimulus
What is the specific trigger? Other dogs, unfamiliar people, cyclists, fast movement, noise? Be precise. "Everything" is not an answer — it means you haven't looked closely enough yet. The more precisely you identify the stimulus, the more precisely you can train the response.
Find the threshold distance
How far from the stimulus can your dog be before they tip over? That distance is your starting point. You will train just below it — close enough to notice the stimulus, far enough to still function. Write it down. You will revisit it weekly.
Choose an alternative behaviour
Pick one clear behaviour you want instead of the reaction: sit, wait, quiet, recall, leave it, or focus on the handler. This is what you will train throughout all four phases. One behaviour, clearly defined, consistently rewarded.
Phase 1
1
First Phase
Bonding and Communication

Before any behaviour can be trained, the dog needs to trust the handler and understand a shared communication system. This phase has no distractions and no stimulus present. It is the foundation everything else is built on.

Build the bond without an agenda
Spend time with the dog without training. Calm, confident body language communicates safety and stability. Engage in activities the dog enjoys — gentle play, quiet companionship. The dog needs to find you worth working for before you can ask them to work.
Establish clear communication
Introduce a clear marker — a word like "yes" or a clicker — that tells the dog precisely which behaviour is being rewarded. Consistency matters: the same signal, every time, immediately. This creates the shared language you will rely on throughout training.
Train the alternative behaviour with no distractions
Teach the chosen alternative behaviour — sit, focus, recall, or whatever you selected — in a completely neutral environment. No stimulus present. Use play to create enthusiasm and energy in the work. The dog should find this behaviour rewarding and easy before any pressure is added.
Phase 1 principle

If the dog is struggling to learn the alternative behaviour in a distraction-free environment, the problem is in the communication or the reward — not the dog. Go back to basics before adding anything.

Having a problem in Phase 1? The communication is not clear enough, the reward is not motivating enough, or the environment still has too much going on. Strip it back further.
Phase 2
2
Second Phase
Training the Alternative Behaviour

The alternative behaviour is now trained under low distractions, using positive reinforcement. The stimulus may be present — but at a distance or low intensity — well below threshold. The dog is always in a state where they can think and respond.

Introduce low distractions
Begin in a low-distraction environment and add mild distractions gradually. The stimulus may now be present in the background at a comfortable distance — far enough that the dog notices it but can still focus on you. This is below threshold.
Use positive reinforcement (+R) throughout
Every correct response to the alternative behaviour gets rewarded. Vary the type and amount. Reward the dog for looking at the stimulus and then looking back at you — this is the beginning of a conditioned response you can use in Phase 3 and beyond.
Practise with and without the stimulus
Alternate between sessions with the stimulus at distance and sessions without it. The dog should be performing the alternative behaviour reliably in both conditions before progressing to Phase 3.
Phase 2 principle

No correction is appropriate here. The dog is still in the TRAIN stage. If they fail to respond, the stimulus is too close, the reward is not motivating enough, or the distraction level was raised too quickly. Take a step back — never push through failure.

Having a problem in Phase 2? Increase the distance from the stimulus. Raise the reward value. Return to Phase 1 if communication has broken down.
Phase 3
3
Third Phase
Training Below Threshold

The dog now trains with the stimulus present at a close enough distance to be genuinely challenging — but always below the tipping point. The work happens just below threshold, never on top of it.

Never train on top of the threshold

A dog who is over threshold cannot learn. They are in a reactive state — their brain is flooded with arousal, cortisol, and adrenaline. Training at that point only rehearses the reaction and makes it stronger. If your dog tips over, remove them from the situation immediately, give them time to recover, and begin the next session further away.

Every sub-threshold success moves the line closer to the stimulus. That is how resilience is built — not by parking the dog at their tipping point, but by accumulating wins just below it until the distance naturally closes.

Work just below threshold — consistently
Position the dog so the stimulus is present and acknowledged, but the dog remains able to think and respond. This is the training zone. If the dog can take food, respond to cues, and look away from the stimulus voluntarily, you are in the right place. Stay there. Do not push closer just because one session went well.
Train the alternative behaviour with the stimulus present
Ask for the alternative behaviour while the stimulus is in the dog's awareness. Reward every correct response generously. The dog is learning to choose a different response to the trigger — this is the core of all reactive dog training.
Close the distance gradually — based on evidence
Only move the dog closer to the stimulus after consistent success at the current distance. "Consistent" means the dog succeeds in roughly 8 out of 10 exposures at that distance. Move closer by a small increment. If performance drops, move back out. Distance is your most powerful tool — use it deliberately.
If the dog reacts — counterconditioning by response type
Fear or defensive reaction
  • Throw food on the ground in front of the dog — do not hand it directly
  • Scatter feeding lowers arousal and creates a positive association with the trigger
  • Do not ask for any behaviour — just let the dog eat and settle
  • Once calm, increase distance and resume below threshold
Prey drive or frustration reaction
  • Do not use food on the ground — it will not register when prey drive is active
  • Redirect the dog away from the stimulus with movement and engagement
  • Once redirected and offering focus on the handler, reward with food or play by hand
  • Frustration can often be treated with either method or a combination
Phase 3 principle

The goal of this phase is to accumulate sub-threshold wins. Each one narrows the distance at which the dog can function calmly. There is no shortcut. A dog who is rushed through Phase 3 will stall in Phase 4 or regress under pressure.

Having a problem in Phase 3? The dog is most likely tipping over threshold too easily. Increase the distance. Check for trigger stacking — what happened before this session? Return to Phase 2 if needed and rebuild.
Final Phase
Final Phase
The Balanced Approach

The dog has built a reliable conditioned response through Phases 1–3. They know the alternative behaviour and have performed it consistently below threshold with the stimulus present. The balanced approach now introduces the possibility of a correction — but only under precise conditions.

Continue to work below threshold. Gradually reduce the distance to the stimulus, or maintain control at a comfortable working distance. The reactive dog is rarely "cured" — they are managed to a point where they can function well in the world.

Five conditions for a fair correction
The dog must know the behaviour
Not knows it at home — knows it at this level of distraction, in this environment, with this stimulus present. If there is any doubt, it is still TRAIN, not WORK.
The dog must be below threshold
A correction applied to a dog who is over threshold is not a correction — it is adding punishment to a state of distress. It will make the association with the stimulus worse, not better.
Use the lowest effective level
A tap on the shoulder and a quiet "hey, focus" is a correction. Lead pressure is a correction. A simple "No" is a correction. Start at the lightest possible level that interrupts the behaviour. No harsh punishment is required.
Never correct a fear-based reaction
If the dog is reacting from fear or defensive arousal, a correction will increase the anxiety and worsen the problem. Use counterconditioning instead. Correct only deliberate non-compliance in a dog you know is calm enough to make a choice.
Always follow the correction with the right answer and a reward
A correction tells the dog what not to do. It must be immediately followed by asking for the alternative behaviour and rewarding the response. The correction is the interruption; the reward is the teaching.
Assessing the outcome
Going well

The dog is responding — either through correction or through the trained behaviour. Offer a reward. Continue below threshold, gradually reducing distance as confidence builds.

Knows it, but not listening

The dog knows the behaviour at this level and is choosing not to respond. A correction may be appropriate — at the lowest effective level, followed immediately by the alternative behaviour and a reward.

Not resolved

The dog is most likely over threshold, or does not truly know the behaviour at this level of distraction. Increase the distance, return to Phase 3, and rebuild. This is not failure — it is information.

Final phase principle

Reactivity management is cumulative. Each successful session below threshold narrows the distance at which the dog can work. There is no fixed end point — and for many dogs, there is no complete resolution. The goal is a dog who can function safely in the situations they encounter in daily life. That is a realistic target for most dogs, but the work is ongoing and the rate of progress varies enormously between individuals.

Over-arousal
When your dog goes over threshold
Signs your dog is over threshold
  • Barking, lunging, or snapping at the stimulus
  • Fixating — unable to look away
  • Refusing food they would normally take
  • Hackles raised, body stiff or low
  • Whining, pacing, or spinning
  • Not responding to known commands
What to do
  • Remove the dog from the situation calmly — do not drag or shout
  • Increase the distance until the dog can take food again
  • Give the dog time to settle before resuming any training
  • Do not try to "push through" the reaction — it will make it worse
  • Scatter feed on the ground if fear-based; hand feed after redirection if prey drive
What not to do
  • Do not correct a dog who is over threshold
  • Do not flood the dog by keeping them near the stimulus until they calm down
  • Do not punish the reaction — it does not address the cause
  • Do not continue the session — end it after recovery at a distance

Arousal hangover: after a significant reaction, cortisol levels remain elevated for up to 72 hours. A dog who reacted on Monday may be more easily tipped over on Tuesday and Wednesday even if the stimulus is further away. This is normal — factor it in when planning the next session. Give a recovery day after any major reaction. Also note: excitement and prey drive tip dogs over threshold just as fast as fear. A dog who is highly aroused in play or chase mode is not calm — they are running on the same neurological fuel as a frightened dog.

Need help with a reactive dog?

Reactivity is one of Darren's core specialities. If you're working through this framework and hitting a wall — or if the reactivity involves aggression — a one-on-one session can help identify where the work needs to focus and what is realistic for your dog.

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